Glenn Martens is concluding his six-year tenure as the creative director for the Italian denim label, Diesel. The brand made an official announcement today, confirming that Martens's forthcoming show in Milan will mark his final presentation in this capacity.
Martens's appointment by Diesel's founder, Renzo Rosso, in October 2020 initiated a profound transformation within the company, both strategically and creatively. Under his leadership, OTB, the conglomerate that includes Diesel, reported the brand's most successful year in a decade during 2025.
Renzo Rosso lauded Martens in a recent statement, acknowledging his significant contributions: "He fundamentally altered public perception of the brand. He re-established Diesel's prominence in the global fashion discourse, all while maintaining our core values of openness, vitality, and accessibility. We are immensely grateful for his achievements."
Martens's departure from Diesel will enable him to fully commit to his role as creative director at Maison Margiela, a Paris-based house that is also a part of Rosso's OTB portfolio. He assumed this position in January 2025, succeeding John Galliano, a move largely influenced by the dynamic success of his work at Diesel.
In an interview with L'Uomo Vogue prior to his inaugural show in June 2021, Martens shared his vision, stating, "My involvement here extends beyond mere fashion. Diesel is a brand with a strong social dimension. This aspect deeply excited me, as I recognized the potential to create something more meaningful than just aesthetically pleasing garments."
Martens undeniably delivered on this promise. His initial phase at the Breganze-based brand involved a collaboration with Andrea Rosso to refine Diesel's sustainable practices and introduce novel retail concepts, such as its innovative denim 'library.' Furthermore, he rapidly made an impact on the runway, embracing Diesel's characteristic defiance and broader appeal due to its more accessible price point.
Following his debut show, known for its inflatable body aesthetics, Martens amplified this concept to an unprecedented degree. His Spring 2023 collection showcased his distinctive Diesel denim vocabulary amidst four colossal, intertwined inflatable human figures, presented to an audience of nearly 5,000, including numerous students and members of the public who were granted free admission.
In subsequent seasons, Martens focused on expanding market presence through a series of bold initiatives. He constructed a runway using 200,000 Durex condom boxes, hosted a free outdoor rave in the rain for 7,000 attendees, live-streamed the Diesel Studio's show preparations, emphasized Diesel's regenerative approach by filling a vast show space with denim waste offcuts, and dispatched six miles of white fabric swatches to art schools worldwide for a collaborative collection.
The previous season's presentation featured a compelling collection evoking a 'walk of shame' narrative, set against a vast display of Diesel memorabilia spanning its 48-year heritage. Diesel stated today that it would announce its future creative direction plans "in due course." Meanwhile, one final Martens-era runway show awaits, promising to be a spectacular event.
The journey of Diesel under Glenn Martens exemplifies how innovative leadership and a willingness to challenge conventions can reinvigorate a brand. His tenure has demonstrated the power of creative vision to not only enhance a company's financial performance but also to reshape its cultural relevance. By intertwining fashion with social commentary and accessibility, Martens has set a new benchmark for engaging with a global audience. His legacy at Diesel will undoubtedly inspire future generations of designers to push boundaries and pursue a more purposeful approach to fashion, proving that authenticity and bold expression can lead to both commercial success and critical acclaim.
